The continuation of #14. Geworfenheit — As we felt the story wasn't completely finished yet.
A men's tailored collection in impeccable fabrics sourced from Schotland, Savile Row and Vintage-slow wovens from Italy and Japan; build around a classic tailored, but oxidised copper coat.
photography: Yves De Brabander — models: Jasper C. and Timon B.
No 14. GEWORFENHEIT
(aka Spring Summer 2018)
Heavily inspired on world politics, fuelled by his interest in contradictory, Cedric Jacquemyn’s Geworfenheit collection references the paradox of freedom.
Enforced by Heidegger’s concept geworfenheit, that describe humans’ individual existences as “being thrown” into the world. A kind of alienation that human beings struggle against.
Antwerp, the city where Cedric lives and works, once was home to Europe’s main port for Trans-Atlantic voyages. A city that housed thousands of refugees coming from all over Europe; looking for a better life in a new world. The paradox of freedom hit close to home.
The Statue of Liberty, a symbol of freedom, an immigrant from the old world, a gatekeeper to the new, oxidised into an ancient relic of isolation at the edge of a continent in shut down. A sculpture as a stagnant memory of hope, a reflection to a world more divided.
Cedric Jacquemyn’s 14th collection is a physical translation; transparent layered linen blazers and coats give the illusion of things yet to come, of pieces in transformation. A waistcoat half turned inside out makes a transgression into striped garments, highlighting the architectural construction of his tailored silhouettes. Showing the inside of jackets gives the feeling of looking further and deeper. Sleeves constructed by just two darts, draped over the shoulder, show his quest for innovation.
Sculptural copper jackets reference liberty, A statue as a static representation of movement, an endless contradiction. The material will oxidise naturally over time.
photography: Yves De Brabander — model: Timon B.
No 13. IF THIS IS THE END, WHAT IF IT IS?
(aka Autumn Winter 2017/18)
photography: Yves De Brabander — models: Jasper C.
No 12. HERE IS NO BORDER ONLY DUST
(aka Spring Summer 2017)
Cedric Jacquemyn's 12th collection invites us to imagine tomorrow's world, albeit one that opens into the infinite, the borderless. Built on Babylonian ruins, its contrats allow man to finally find his balance.
If Jacquemyn's name appears to be whispered, shared, murmured at Fashion's every corner and crossroad, it's most likely because he's come up with a unprecedented balance, one that unveils a new masculine silhouette, both architectural and refined, one that toys with contrasts, materials, and shades of black.
The Belgian designer recently opened his collection with a statement: " Here is no border, only dust "… Planting his flag in virgin territories, with only the horizon as a possible border, he seems to have conjured a space where men are finally able to free themselves from society's complexity. In the mean time a heavy political statement to the refugee crisis in Europe.
His beauty is savage and romantic. The materials' fluidity softens the sharp cuts, and the wrinkled fabric brings modernity to urban pieces.
Introducing a heritage Flanders Linen, exclusively woven in Flanders region and designed by Cedric himself. Light and vaporous wools fall delicately on leather shorts that bear raw, instinctive cuts. Woolen coats are highlighted by more leather, this time with sculpturesque pants that almost absorb the very energy given off by light itself.
Jacquemyn keeps pushing the envelope, and goes as far as to create a parchment lambskin sleeveless jacket for sorts, of utterly crude beauty, exclusively available at Leclaireur Sévigné.
Every single piece of Jacquemyn's latest collection attracts the eye like the ever-changing nuances of an arid landscape, where beauty arises and connects with emotion, and where inner truths prevail over outside appearances.
— L'Eclaireur, Paris.
photography: Yves De Brabander — model: Jasper C.
No 11. THE DEAD TREE GIVES NO SHELTER
(aka Autumn Winter 2016/17)
photography: Yves De Brabander — models: Jasper C. — Elias Cafmeyer
No 10. UNTITLED
(aka Spring Summer 2016)
Emphasizing his skills as a meticulous tailor, Antwerp-based Cedric Jacquemyn goes back to the essence of cloth and construction, combining razor-sharp cuts with evocative fabrics.
The silhouette is long and architectural, perched on leather boots, a new collaboration with fellow Belgian designer Nico Uytterhaegen.
The disheveled and the savage are ongoing motifs within Jacquemyn's clothes -balanced with intricate shapes and refined details but the collection has a tougher and stricter edge this time, isolating
body parts to create new tensions.
The body is concealed, but exposed at the same time, evidenced by the use of mesh-like materials for shirts, jackets and knits. A newly developped waistcoat fully closed in the front but exposing the back. Key contrasts between rough and
soft demonstrate Jacquemyn's ongoing exploration of textures, A paper-thin leather jacket has the feel of plastic, while a fringed, open-knit tunic resembles crochet.
A grayish green seems dusty and used, reminding us of nature in a state of decay. Beautifully perverse, Cedric Jacquemyn's collection plays with paradox and ambivalence, seizing the seductive glare of a collapsing world.
— Philippe Pourhashemi, ASVOF.
photography: Yves De Brabander — model: Jasper C.
No 9. TO THE DEPTHS OF THE LAST RESERVE, pt III
(aka Autumn Winter 2015/16)
This season is significant for the Belgian designer, who introduces color and graphic patterns into his line, as well as silver jewelry pieces and an exclusive figurative print, created with photographer Yves de Brabander.
Jacquemyn references rites of passage, such as blood initiation in New Guinea Islands, which stress the evolutionary nature of some of his garments.
The silhouette is long and architectural, perched on leather platform boots, a collaboration with accessory designer Nico Uytterhaegen.
From t-shirts and shirts buttoned in the back to jackets displaying a higher neckline, a detail emphasized by the use of tonal stitching. Hooded coats incorporate
inner panels of matching fabric, evoking the formality of classic waistcoats.
A collarless wool gauze shirt features two folds of attached fabric closed by one single button, recalling the striking simplicity of Japanese origami. Reworked harem pants
have a similar structured shape, square and boxy on top with long and narrow legs. A graphically striped jacket reveals an attached waistcoat, which can be draped
softly around the neck.
Key contrasts between rough and soft demonstrate Jacquemyn's ongoing exploration of textures, from the dry hand of felted wool
and brushed gabardine to the gentle touch of mohair and flecked tweed, its irregular weave evoking the ritualistic marks of scarification.
Envisaging color with the same intensity he handles black, the designer crafts a pair of statement pants in oxblood leather, made out of seemingly separate, articulated parts...
— Philippe Pourhashemi
photography: Yves De Brabander — models: Jonathan Bauer-Hayden @ Elite Models, Paris — Dorian Jespers @ IMM Brussels.
No 8. TO THE DEPTHS OF THE LAST RESERVE, pt II
(aka Spring Summer 2015)
Illustrating his interest in the contradictory forces of disappearance and preservation, Cedric
Jacquemyn's new collection references the uncontacted tribes of the Amazon, particularly the
ones around the Rondônia region of Brazil.
Ignoring the standardized discourse of globalization and remaining untouched by its ruthless logics, these tribes are nevertheless threatened by industries and deforestation, becoming extinct and bound to wither away.
The tension between knowledge and innocence informs most of the collection, with its focus on intricate tailoring and textural contrasts. A shawl-collared jacket unveils its detailed construction under a transparent veil of sheer fabric, emphasizing the dichotomy between sleek and rough, organic and refined.
Exposing the underpinnings of garments, Jacquemyn's approach advocates honesty instead of pretense, crafting a complex and delicate vision. Moving away from ubiquitous sportswear, the Belgian designer offers a new take on
sophisticated dressing, experimental and urban at the same time.
Knitwear is sheer and unstructured, echoing natural forms and draping itself across the body. A sleeveless top features frayed edges, underlining the rawness and strength of constant survival. Leather seems cracked and lived-in, smudged and greased for a dirty effect. Buttons are visible on a pair of loose-fitting pants, tapered at the ankle for a bolder shape.
A discontinued line -inspired by the Ecuador's Tsachila people- pops up on several items, giving us another insight into the twists and turns encountered by the tribes. The passage of time - as well as the singular destinies of these isolated men- resonate within the designer's work, using an installation format to showcase his clothes, reconciling for a while victims and assailants.
Working with noble materials, such as leather, linen, cotton and silk, the collection keeps its sensual edge, underlining the tactile nature of Jacquemyn's garments.
— Philippe Pourhashemi
Presentation at Some/Things Studio during Paris mens June 2014. Photography by Matteo Carcelli for Some/Things Magazine.
Photography: Yves De Brabander — model: Michael Tintiuc @ Elite Models, Paris.
No 7. TO THE DEPTHS OF THE LAST RESERVE
(aka Autumn Winter 2014/15)
... This season, Jacquemyn finds inspiration in loose threads, unfinished stories that demand a second take.
Playing with illusion and unexpected effects, he pursues his research on textures and contrasts, combining the rough with the soft, the pared-down with the intricate.
Focusing on natural fibers -such as yak, alpaca, leather and linen- the Belgian designer goes back to the primitive notion of clothing as shelter, wrapping men into his soft and protective garments. Reconnecting with our roots and the essence of clothing, he offers a spiritual and transient vision.
Using tree bark on several pieces -an ancient UNESCO WORLDHERITAGE weaving technique hailing from Uganda- Jacquemyn gets even closer to the organic nature of his work, pushing flux instead of stasis.
Imperfection adds depth to the line, as well as a certain fragility. An open knit unravels in front of our eyes, while irregular fringing adorns a woolen jacket. Rope yarns have a slightly tribal feel, mixing different threads to create new pairings. They are used in a dramatic cover-up, a hybrid of shawl and cardigan.
Black sheepskin is wild and beast-like, bringing out a sense of darkness and determination. It appears sheared on an impeccably tailored coat, featuring a funnel neck and asymmetrical fastening. A pair of fuzzy knit leggings evokes the skin of an animal. Thick leather resembles rubber, exploring the tension between real and man-made.
Introducing denim for the first time, Jacquemyn uses coating to give it a lived-in feel, simplifying details to the bare minimum. His jackets and coats are sleek and minimal, with hidden buttons and high necks, echoing monastic gestures. Shoulders and backs seem rounder and more generous, while shirts are longer and loose. Pants feature a drop waist, while keeping a slim leg.
Jewelry also appears within the line, in the form of thin black horn and copper bracelets. Accessories include scarves, beanie hats and a pair of sturdy leather boots, developed with Belgian designer Mats Rombaut.
The disappearing cultures of the ancient Amazon and the dying rituals of their tribes inform the second chapter of Remains of Muted Beliefs, a men's wardrobe by the Belgian designer Cedric Jacquemyn.
Melancholy airs of disintegration and extinction are woven throughout, captured and streamlined in veiled layers – the stories of survival locked in the cloth. - A seminal romance dictates the long, lithe silhouette as garments clasp at the throat and fall in decadent swathes of cashmere, silk, linen and cool wool. A heritage selfedge handloom wool exclusively woven in the Himalaya's.
The dark palette is broken by moments of khaki, bone and a myriad of textures contrasting rough and raw materials with a dim lustre. Broad stripes of selvedge highlight the intimate structures within jackets and trousers, trimming the split back of bomber jackets or a draped skort. Raw hems finish cotton silk sarouel trousers or glazed shorts, and fine jersey is ribbed and split as loose tank dresses and tees. Jogging pants in leather and knit add a sportif ease to the slim contours.
Bold black stripes across cream linen echo the striated designs of ethnic tattoos and the concentric age lines of ancient trees. A blazer cut in cream muslin clings to its dark lining, and loose knit underpins a bold perfecto biker. The same thread becomes a laddered cardigan and shorts, mingled with leather for a rich and tactile structure...
photography: Yves De Brabander — model: Paco De Clercq
No 4. PLAINS OF NATIVE RITES
(aka Spring Summer 2013)
... In continuation of Cedric's previous collections his S/S 2013 is inspired on the force of men against the force of nature.
The cultivation of the Amazonian rain forest and the consequences it has on the survival of its indigenous people.
It feels like we are chopping off our roots hoping we can keep standing without them...
A collection with razorsharp cuts in tailoring, leather threads woven by hand in semi sheer handknits and a series of leather pieces done in an exclusive Icelandic wolffish.
photography: Yves De Brabander — model: Paco De Clercq
No 3. FIELDS OF REGENERATION
(aka Autumn Winter 2012/13)
... Inspired by ever-changing landscapes, consequences of destruction, and the life it creates.
Like the eucalyptus tree that needs extreme heat to release its seeds and therefore takes the risk of eliminating itself.
This collection is the result of the beauty of returning life, the power of survival, a message of illumination.
Inspired by clan structures and the decay of the feeling of unity, handknit deconstructed tartan pieces are a translation of our current world, however the knit in itself is a paradox, deconstruction is not destruction. In garments the feeling of comfort is expressed, as if you would wear a piece of fabric over one shoulder...
photography: Yves De Brabander — model: Daniel Bamdad (left) and Sam Deliaert (right)
No 2. THE WASTE LAND
(aka Spring Summer 2012)
... The inspiration for this collection depicted from a duality in nature:
The ocean - the womb of our earth - the origin of life, has the power to destroy crops, to dry out the land by leaving layers of salt after a tsunami.
The volcano – the most destructive force – possesses the quality of making land fertile again, of bringing new life.
This duality – between power and tranquillity, between darkness and light, between life and death – forms the keywords for this collection.
In garment this is translated by the use of very fluid materials like loosely woven and transparent linens, super fine jersey and loose silk and cashmere knitwear. These fabrics have the quality to fall freely. Draped, not by letting them fall naturally, but by forcing them slightly around the body, what gives them the feeling of this duality...
photography: Yves De Brabander — model: Elmar Johnsson (left) and Sam Deliaert (right)
No 1. THE LAST GLACIER, pt II
(aka Autumn Winter 2011/12)
The collection is a continuation of his graduation collection "THE LAST GLACIER".
By adding new styles and by altering some of the existing pieces, CEDRIC JACQUEMYN creates a complete collection.
Iceland, CEDRIC JACQUEMYN's most prominent source of inspiration is meticulously translated in his garments.
He manages to capture the blatant beauty and the emotions of Iceland's constant duality into every single piece he makes.
A duality of both the serenity and the power of Icelandic nature, and the threatening consequences of the ever-changing environment,
a feeling of isolated wondering.
The choice of fabrics, the use of geometrical designs, the knotting technique used to assemble the garments and the contrast in the use
of both dark and light colours create an atmosphere of both awareness and illumination: a feeling of silence, of quietly mourning and
saying goodbye. Also they refer to darkness, to volcanic ash blacking out sunlight.
photography: Yves De Brabander — model: Thiemon Sempels @ New Models, Brussels.
